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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 8/11/2008 Posts: 785 Points: 2,355 Location: northeast
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Actually I've used the Anthelios Dermo Peds a lot last summer, and liked that it wasn't shiny after it dried, and didn't break me out. But again, I got those spots/freckles in the summer. I don't know what else to try. I know it's only when it's really sunny, so the UVB rays are triggering them. If it was UVA, then I'd have those freckles pop up all year, since I'm outside a lot too, walking around in the city and I skating outside in the fall. The sunscreen seems to work well all year, but the summer for some reason, it doesn't seem to work as well.
I've read on makeupalley that some people actually do better with micronized zinc oxide, but I know that even the highest % forumlas don't reach a very high PPD.
Thanks for the visor recommendation.:)
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I can see a thick zinc oxide paste being more persistent on the skin. But the maximum PPD of typical formulations will be about 1/4 of Dermo Peds. There is one exception, SVR 50B, it has a PPD of about 20. You could try that one on your nose, use something cheaper elsewhere. I think you can find it for less $ than here. http://www.beautyplatinium.com/product_p/svrs50.htm
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 8/11/2008 Posts: 785 Points: 2,355 Location: northeast
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kosmeds wrote:I can see a thick zinc oxide paste being more persistent on the skin. But the maximum PPD of typical formulations will be about 1/4 of Dermo Peds. There is one exception, SVR 50B, it has a PPD of about 20. You could try that one on your nose, use something cheaper elsewhere. I think you can find it for less $ than here. http://www.beautyplatinium.com/product_p/svrs50.htm Thanks for the recommendation. But is PPD 20 actually on the label or was it estimated? I thought zinc oxide blocked more long wave UVA than titanium, and it has less zinc. Maybe the particle size of the titanium makes it that PPD? At least it's tinted, so maybe it will look ok. One more question, do you think it's a good idea to apply it over Anthelios xl or over another ss with avobenzone? I read that avobenzone and zinc oxide are not used together in ss for incompatibility reasons, but what if they are just layered, after one fully dries? I know with the natural oils and perpiration, they would interact though. But I wonder why a derm like Leslie Bauman claims that she layers sunscreens, since she thinks it's more protection. I read that in an article, and I think she said she does like Anthelios, or Neutrogena ( also has avobenzone for long wave UVA) and layers with a physical (mineral) sunscreen). Or maybe some derms don't pay enough attention to research on the chemical compatibility issues? Or maybe it is ok to do that?
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Thanks for the recommendation. But is PPD 20 actually on the label or was it estimated?
It's a tested value.
I thought zinc oxide blocked more long wave UVA than titanium, and it has less zinc.
Depends on the particle size, the coating, and the carrier.
question, do you think it's a good idea to apply it over Anthelios xl or over another ss with avobenzone?
If they are both photostable, it should not be a problem unless there are weird film formers, which some of them do have.
I read that avobenzone and zinc oxide are not used together in ss for incompatibility reasons, but what if they are just layered, after one fully dries?
There may be some deactivation at the interface, but you'd need a lab to test it to find out how much.
But I wonder why a derm like Leslie Bauman claims that she layers sunscreens, since she thinks it's more protection.
She's not telling all of what she knows, more specifically the precise circumstances under which it's an ok thing to do. Y
For normal consumers it's not advisable. If you think you are not an expert, getting the highest PPD you can stand, applying it lavishly and reapplying it frequently with your 5" wide visor and sunsglasses would be more prudent than layering two different brands which may or may not be completely compatible.
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Joined: 8/11/2008 Posts: 785 Points: 2,355 Location: northeast
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Kosmeds, thanks for all your info. It's been really helpful.
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kosmeds, what do you think about the CIBA sunscreen simulator and its accuracy when gauging PPD protections. I remember you saying something before about how particle sizes for physical sunscreens are not the same for each distributor so its near impossible to gauge the PPD protections, yet the ciba sunscreen simulator still manages to find out the PPD based on only the active ingredients and percentage of active ingredients. Do you think the numbers they generate are a good "ballpark" measurement? For example, right now the sunscreen simulator says that when I apply my 22.5% zinc oxide sunscreen + 6% titanium dioxide sunscreen at about 3.0mg/cm^2, I am getting about 22.2 PPD protection, which is on par with a lot of those stronger European sunscreens with high PPDs. Do you think this is an accurate assessment of the PPD, give or take a few points depending on what ZO and T2O particle sizes are used? Honestly, I would love to switch over to using chemical sunscreens like the European ones but they are so expensive. If I can mimic those strong UVA protections with a physical sunscreen and more appliance than I'm willing to do that because my budget can't handle all those European sunscreen prices. The 22.5 ZO + 6% T2O sunscreen I use makes my face inappropriately white but I dust it over with the Physicians Formula bronzer which is very concentrated in titanium dioxide and a bit of zinc. What do you use to protect your lips?
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ahappycamper wrote:
If I can mimic those strong UVA protections with a physical sunscreen and more appliance than I'm willing to do that because my budget can't handle all those European sunscreen prices. The 22.5 ZO + 6% T2O sunscreen I use makes my face inappropriately white but I dust it over with the Physicians Formula bronzer which is very concentrated in titanium dioxide and a bit of zinc.
What do you use to protect your lips?
I hope kosmeds answers your questions about PPD, but I can tell you that European sunscreens don't have to be super expensive. There are many sites, including reputable ebay sellers from Europe that sell them at reasonable prices. I've been getting them for several yrs, and each tube usually is under $15/16, some slightly more. The shipping can be expensive in some sites, but order several at once, off sets the cost. Total cost with shipping may be close to $18/20 for each tube. Sometimes less though. They usually have a 2-3 yr expiration date whenever I've ordered them. U.S. sunscreens like Neutrogena w/helioplex are usually $13-14, not much less. Also many others can be close to $20. So European sunscreens are not really expensive, IF you buy from the right sources. There are sites which double/triple the price they actually cost in Europe, so be careful. Some people may think $20 is too much for a sunscreen, but really, it's the most important product to prevent skin aging, so well worth it. Even drugstore moisturizers can cost close to $20 these days, and most don't have enough ingredients to do much good. Some people spend alot more on other products that do nearly as much as sunscreens can do for skin. European Anthelios also has lip protection products.
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{when I apply my 22.5% zinc oxide sunscreen + 6% titanium dioxide sunscreen at about 3.0mg/cm^2, I am getting about 22.2 PPD protection} That seems high to me. Previously the L'Oreal people found 20% ZnO gave a PPD of 3.1 while CIBA found 16% ZnO provided a PPD of 4.2 with no other filters present. But since micronized TiO2 provides little protection above 340 nm, it would not be expected to boost the PPD significantly. There might be film stabilizers in the formulation that bring things up a bit. But I'm skeptical. My guesstimate at 2mg/cm^2 would be around PPD 8.0. I'd ask the manufacturer to be certain. They probably have done PPD testing, but it's not something they put on the label if they are sold in the USA. If you are persistent about talking to a technical person when you call customer service you might get a useful answer. Are you really applying 3 mg/cm^2? At that rate it would look like a thick white paste even with micronized filters. That's more than 1/3 of a teaspoon. Most people apply 0.5-1 mg/cm^2. I guess I'd have to see it to believe it. I can do that when I am at home in my backyard but not when I am in public. But yes, there are cheap sunscreens with high PPDs, the one I use now is $21 for 200 ml (as opposed to the usual 100 ml tube), SPF50+/PPD 24 on the label. That's still far less expensive than typical. I used http://pharmazon.grI think the simulator is ok for basic USA formulations that have no more than 2-4 familiar filters. But they are better for the Euro formulations. Sometimes they are way off for USA formulations since they don't have all the USA tweaks for PPD boosting. But they seem to be improving in accuracy. Edited to add: also there are pretty big variations in protection action spectrum for TiO2 and ZnO depending on the particle size, the material in which it is dispersed initially (if any, some manufacturers use predispersed minerals), whether it is oil or water soluble, what type of coatings are present, and the size of the clumps of the particles as they cluster. All these things make it difficult to pinpoint the actual PPD without in vivo testing, and only 4 of all the possible mineral products available are incorporated in the Ciba simulator.
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I once tried to make my own sunscreen powder make up by mixing powdered zinc oxide, powdered titanium oxide (white sun block stuff) with colored pigments in hopes of getting my skin hue. What a MESS, the dry pigments would not mix or blend and there was too much yellow orange in them and even when I tried to tone down with blue pigment to cancel the yellow orange, the blue would not mix either and I'd get these streaks of different color. So, I mixed up with some oil (wanted to salvage my investment in powdered pigments!) and got some gritty crappy color. So, then I bought some cover girl ivory shade (much lighter than me) and 'cut' it with that. I guess it works OK when I go out to farm/garden where no one sees me.
Another thing i used to do was to get the greasy zinc oxide in the tube, mix with other pigments like melted down concealer for DARK skin and some red lipstick to try to get my hue. Put that on OVER sunscreen. To cut the grease, I would blot with that pulverized Aveeno powdered oatmeal bath stuff. Thing is, it does look like I have a lot of make up on but it works OK.
I don't like clear sun block because it's hard to tell if I miss a spot. So, I've taken to putting on gads of pigment mixes for sunblock, along with sunblock in a DIFFERENT SKIN COLOR than my own. Only in that way, do I know it's on evenly and I have not missed a spot.
Can hardly walk. Need hip replacement.
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Most of the Euro LRP formulations contain TiO2 and they go on white, not clear. So you can tell if you have missed a spot. The whiteness fades as it penetrates the stratum corneum, though, takes 5-10 minutes for me unless I apply much more than 2 mg/cm^2 in which case I can still see it on my face for hours.
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Miss J, can you make this a sticky so we don't lose all of this good info on sunscreens/ppd/etc?
DCNGA has left the board and is no longer taking PMs. She requests that if you wish to e-mail her to use her direct e-mail address which is: laserandiplsupport@gmail.com
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Awesome info, kosmeds! STICKY PLEASE!!
Pay no attention to Caesar. Caesar doesn’t have the slightest idea what’s really going on. Kurt Vonnegut
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